Aquarium Portrait: Janka Heissinger
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  1. #1
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    Default Aquarium Portrait: Janka Heissinger

    From: http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/cont...nka-heissinger

    Aquarium Portrait: Janka Heissinger



    By CORAL Editors - Posted on 21 July 2010


    Extraordinary reef after two years, with thriving Goniopora and other large-polyp stony corals housed in a converted 610-L (161-gal) freshwater aquarium.
    One Woman's Dream Aquarium: A Beginner's Notes
    Text and Images by Janka Heissinger
    I am someone who marvels at other people’s reef aquaria and who has tremendous respect for those who employ great care and technical know-how to convert their aquarium-hobby dreams into reality.
    With just two years experience as a marine aquarist, a woman in a male-dominated hobby, I regard myself as being light-years behind the achievements of some professionals, and so I am all the happier when my own aquarium also finds its admirers.

    From Discus tank to coral reef
    When I started in the reef aquarium hobby in 2007, I had long dreamed of owning a marine aquarium. Until then I had been keeping Discus (Symphysodon spp.), which some people regard as challenging to keep. I was told that my experience with these delicate fishes would be a good basis for maintaining the inhabitants of tropical coral reefs, and so, after first consulting with my partner Robert, I began planning.
    The freshwater aquarium was broken down, various books were devoured and Internet forums trawled as additional sources of information. In October 2007 I was finally ready to begin the adventure.
    Acrylic aquarium
    The tank from the Discus era, a very high-quality acrylic aquarium, was now to be used as my reef aquarium, and because it had only a small internal chamber with two holes drilled in the rear panel, I needed to make arrangements to house essential equipment such as the protein skimmer.
    On the one hand, I don’t find hang-on protein skimmers attractive, and on the other it wasn’t possible to fit one because of the top construction of the aquarium. In the end, I chose a powerful internal protein skimmer from Tunze. Because I didn’t have a sump to accommodate the rest of the filter equipment, the external filter from my Discus days was resurrected in short order and filled with activated carbon and phosphate adsorber.

    The circulation pumps and end panels are covered with faux coral rock (“Atoll Riff Deko"), and an acrylic framework was constructed to support the reef.

    Reef construction

    In creating a reefscape with live rock, I deviated somewhat from the norm, as my aim was to be able to alter the rockwork at a later date without tearing the whole tank apart, and to be as flexible as possible if the need to rearrange things came about. One possibility was to use racks of eggcrate, but that didn’t appeal to me. Instead I used various sizes of shelves with legs, made from clear acrylic sheet and rods, and the live rock was simply positioned loose on these.

    The result is a very “airy” reef construction, which provides the fishes with numerous caves as hiding-places and plenty of swimming space.
    Deep Sand Bed
    The choice of bottom covering was a so-called Deep Sand Bed (DSB), a decision some told me was controversial because of the possibility of biological instability. In addition this type of system is sometimes criticized as a waste of space, as it reduces the aquarium depth available.
    But I find it very useful, as on the one hand its functioning as a biological filter stabilizes the system, and on the other it produces large amounts of zooplankton that throngs in the sand bed. There is nothing more gripping – especially at night, when many of the organisms living in the substrate become active – than to sit in front of the aquarium and watch the lively activity. Much better than television!

    Close-up of the deep sand bed through the front panel – it provides habitat for various creatures whose reproduction creates plankton and also functions as an effective biological filter.
    In order to maintain the biological activity of the sand bed, I “inoculate” it every four weeks with bacterial culture and add fresh sand from time to time – sometimes obtained via retail channels, but by preference from our holiday trips to places like the Caribbean or the Maldives. This ensures that the diversity of species is maintained and no bacterial monoculture can form.
    Last edited by marinelife; 07-21-2010 at 09:41 PM.
    Eric
    Salt Geeks Founder & Salt Geek owner of a 375 Gallon Reef Tank!

    Helping preserve Earth's oceans one member at a time

    The author assumes no responsibility for any consequences that may arise from the use of this information.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Things grew and flourished...
    The running-in phase, dreaded by many people, was in my case very much less problematical than expected. I didn’t even have a problem with diatoms, and so after only six weeks I was able to introduce two Chevron Tangs, Ctenochaetus hawaiiensis, in order to deal with the rest of the algae. All in all I found the biological-maturation phase of my miniature ecosystem very interesting and hence would advise every novice to take the time to sit back and observe everything very closely.
    Right from the start it was my wish to have a so-called mixed aquarium or coral garden, not a monoculture of a particular group of corals. My first corals were Xenia spp., Kenya Tree Coral (Capnella imbricata), toadstool leather corals (Sarcophyton spp.) and encrusting anemones (Zoanthiniaria, for example Protopalythoa and Zoanthus) – that is, the typical species that novices are usually advised to maintain.
    At present not only soft and leather corals but also large-polyp stony corals (LPS) and gorgonians predominate, with my particular passion being the genus Goniopora – I succumb whenever I discover an attractive specimen. However, I am going to need to control myself when it comes to the coral population, as everything is growing and flourishing and I need to make sure that the corals don’t restrict the swimming space available to the fishes too much. Luckily there is still open space, especially behind and beneath the reef structure; the fishes like to use this and no corals at all grow there.

    The author's favorite corals, Goniopora spp., appear to thrive in a nutrient-rich environment with deep sand bed and regular feedings of dry rations, phytoplankton, and zooplankton.
    I have a regular love-hate relationship with my two Orangespotted (Maiden) Sleeper Gobies, Valenciennea puellaris, which conscientiously sift through the substrate and keep it clean, but have a liking for releasing mouthfuls of sand all over my precious corals. A large pipette is thus my most important tool for coral maintenance.
    Despite my passion for large-polyp stony corals, my aquarium naturally also contains a number of Acropora and Montipora corals (SPS), though in the rather nutrient-rich water they never become so colorful as to steal the show from the Goniopora species– and I can certainly live with that.
    I am often asked how I feed the Goniopora to get them to thrive so well. But curiously I give little thought to that and merely give them a mixture of a total of seven types of powdered food twice weekly, as well as liquid phyto- and zooplankton. This food supply (and perhaps also the good “aquarium climate” created by the deep sand bed) has apparently led not only to these corals growing well, but also to my Duncanopsammia axifuga expanding from three to 20 polyps in the space of a single year!
    Shortage of oxygen
    Unfortunately all hasn’t always been rosy in my aquarium. My blackest day was a major fish die-off attributable to a shortage of oxygen. I always switch my protein skimmer off during feeding, in order to avoid the rapid filtering out of the floating food particles. And then in December 2008 it happened: because I had forgotten to set the protein skimmer going again after this routine switch-off, and simultaneously one of the current pumps failed, I lost some of my fishes overnight.
    This revealed one disadvantage of the deep sand bed, which – because of its gigantic surface area and bacterial population - requires large amounts of oxygen which can become unavailable to the fishes in the event of mechanical breakdowns.
    By some miracle my two Chevron Tangs and three Lyretail Anthias, Pseudanthias squamipinnis, survived, as well as the Maiden Sleeper Gobies. Since this mishap I don’t go to bed without first checking that the aquarium equipment is functioning. The protein skimmer is, however, still switched off for short periods during the day so that the floating food is available to the corals for longer.
    Pests
    Sooner or later everyone has to contend with unwanted guests, and I too have not been immune: heavy feeding with powdered food and phytoplankton is, of course, particularly to the liking of Aiptasia. I remove them as far as possible, especially in the front part of the aquarium, but I leave them alone in areas that are difficult of access and have developed a healthy degree of stoicism in this regard. Live and let live is my motto in this case, as long as none of the corals is actually harmed – Aiptasia are actually rather attractive creatures as long as there aren’t too many of them.
    My tank has also been sporadically affected by cyanobacteria. Constant siphoning off and the addition of “Microbe-Lift Special Blend” have kept the red plague in check. Turbellarians have also established themselves, and my wrasses are apparently benefiting from consuming these unwanted guests. Short of chemical warfare it is virtually impossible to keep an aquarium completely free of pests, and certainly not something to aim for – in my view even these nuisance life-forms are part of the reef aquarium hobby.
    One concern is the constantly elevated calcium level, which possibly derives from the deep sand bed. While to date I have been using types of salt that have a high calcium content, in future I plan to try and resolve the problem by using salts that contain significantly less calcium.

    The former Discus tank after two years of "laid-back" management.
    Recipe for success?
    All in all, I am a very laid-back sort of person and so I don’t immediately panic at an elevated nitrate reading of maybe 20–30 mg/L, and I don’t have much interest in teasing every last bit of color out of my corals. What is important to me is a harmonious overall impression, and I am content if all my livestock is doing well. Is that a recipe for success? In my case definitely...
    AQUARIUM DETAILS

    SIZE, VOLUME, TIME ESTABLISHED:
    67 x 24 x 24 inches (170 x 60 x 60 cm), 161 gallons (610 L), 2 years
    SMALL-POLYP STONY CORALS (SPS): a few Acropora species and a number of Montipora species, for example M. digitata.
    LARGE-POLYP STONY CORALS (LPS): Caulastrea spp., Duncanopsammia axifuga, Euphyllia spp., Acanthastrea spp., Tubastrea faulkneri, Pavona cactus, Goniopora spp., Plerogyra sinuosa, Blastomussa wellsi, Cynarina deshayesiana, Fungia spp.
    OTHER CNIDARIANS: two Sarcophyton species, Gorgonia ventalina, Muricea pinnata, Pinnigorgia sp., Entacmaea quadricolor, Xenia umbellata, Briareum sp., Sinularia dura, various disc and encrusting anemones.
    INVERTEBRATES: 2 x Lysmata amboinensis, Mespilia globulus, hermit crabs, various gastropods, for example Buccinulum corneum (formerly Babylonia zeylanica), Nerita sp., and Nassarius sp. as well as turbo snails and various tubeworms.
    FISHES: 2 x Zebrasoma flavescens, Zebrasoma xanthurus, Centropyge bicolor, 7 x Pseudanthias squamipinnis, 5 x Chromis viridis, 3 x Neopomacentrus cyanomos, Amphiprion ocellaris (pair), Biochoeres chrysus (pair), Pseudocheilinus hexataenia (pair), Valenciennea puellaris (pair), Labroides dimidiatus.
    AQUASCAPE: Deep Sand Bed (DSB), around 4 inches (10 cm) deep: around 88 pounds (40 kg) live rock; end glasses covered with Atoll-Riff-Deko.
    LIGHTING: Aquaphoton Photon Plus with 2 x 250-watt HQI Type 14,000K+ as well as 4 x 54-watt T5 with Powerchrome Actinic+ and Aquablue+, daily lighting periods 12 hours (fluorescent tubes) and 7 hours (HQI).
    COOLING: ProfiLux PropellerBreeze four-way ventilator.
    WATER MOVEMENT: 2 x Tunze Nanostream 6055, 1450 gallons (5,500 L) per hour; 1 x Tunze Turbelle Stream 6105, 3430 gallons (13,000 L) per hour, controlled via a GHL Profilux.
    WATER MANAGEMENT: Tunze Comline DOC Skimmer 9015, Eheim Professional external filter (filled with activated charcoal and phosphate absorber), reverse-osmosis water preparation with MB20.
    MINERALS, MAINTENANCE: Sporadic partial water changes of 8 gallons (30 L), addition of iodine and strontium every two days, no calcium reactor (there is always plenty of calcium present), added trace elements, vitamins, and amino acids (formerly QFI, now CoralShop)
    FEEDING: 3 x daily with various flake foods and Cyclop-Eeze, frozen food (rinsed and enriched with Sanostol) once a week, seaweed (when available) and Nori algae, mixture of phyto- and zooplankton as well as powdered food for the filter feeders, gorgonians, and bivalves.
    OWNER: Janka Heissinger, Taufkirchen, Germany.
    Eric
    Salt Geeks Founder & Salt Geek owner of a 375 Gallon Reef Tank!

    Helping preserve Earth's oceans one member at a time

    The author assumes no responsibility for any consequences that may arise from the use of this information.

  3. #3
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    Gorgeous tank. Love her Gonioporas. Only 2 years ... wow

  4. #4
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    Thank you Eric! I am diggin this story. You know why!!!!
    Chromiumlux
    Nano Tank Guru
    Playin' with saltwater,electricity,corals--Now that's livin'
    My 150 Deep Dimension build can be viewed here http://www.saltgeeks.com/forums/show...n-Build/page37

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